4 minute readIn ELLE’s series Office Hours, we ask people in powerful positions to tell us about their first job, their worst job, and everything in between. This month, we spoke to supermodel, author, and entrepreneur Ashley Graham. Since starting modeling at just 12 years old, Graham has carved out a career spanning fashion, activism, media and motherhood, reshaping the conversation around body diversity along the way. What is her latest endeavor? A sparkling red wine. Together with co-founder Danny Epstein, she is launching Lucci, a modern Lambrusco created for a new generation and meant to be shared. Below, she talks about how Lucci came to be, the jobs she juggled as a model, and the dream job she hasn’t yet had.
my first job
I started out as a babysitter. I feel like a lot of girls were babysitters in the beginning, but my first big girl job, which my parents considered a 9-to-5 job, was as a server at a restaurant called Breda. The restaurant is only located in Nebraska.
my worst job
Wash dishes with a blade. But you know what I loved the most? It’s drive thru. That was my favorite part because I got to meet different people every day. So let’s go to Breda. It still exists in Nebraska. I’ll come back from time to time. I worked there from 15:00 to 16:00 and they kept saying “you keep quitting”. And I say, “But I’m a model.” They were like, “You have to choose between Breeder and Model.”
Why I was attracted to wine
I’ve built so many things, but I’ve never taken full ownership. I still have a few projects in the works, but this is the first time I’m so excited to bring it into the world. I’ve always been a Lambrusco fan. I wouldn’t have intended to just make wine. It wasn’t Lambrusco or anything. I love it, but it’s not normalized. I saw a hole in the market and wanted to fill it so more people could enjoy the luxury of Lucci.
How Lambrusco became a business idea
Three years ago, my business partner Danny Epstein and I were at Bestia in downtown Los Angeles. That’s where Lucci was born. I noticed that we always drink Lambrusco together on double dates and dinners, so I thought I’d give it a try. Danny already had experience in the liquids business, so it felt like a natural partnership.
I looked it up online and thought, “How do you make Lambrusco?” Ah, it’s in Emilia-Romagna (a region in northern Italy). The question was, “Who makes the best Lambrusco in Emilia-Romagna?” I fell down the rabbit hole and eventually slipped into the DMs of the best winemakers I could find.
What surprised me after launching my brand
The first thing that surprised me was how quickly people said “no.” They were not willing to accept a new take on Lambrusco. Many agencies handle it, but we wanted a strong hitter. I think they were nervous about two things. One is stepping into a celebrity brand and the other is embracing what feels like a new category. Statistically the overall performance of the wine is not that good, but the performance of the bubbles is amazing.
After a lot of persuasion, including tasting the wine, looking at the labels, and understanding the marketing, we were finally able to get people to participate. Yes, it took me a few years to get it the first time. And suddenly it was a yes and it started flowing. The initial resistance really confused me.
Another surprise was how traditional the wine world is. I’ve been to several exhibitions and they all look the same. Most of them are of the same sex, all of them are the same “top dogs”, and I don’t feel like there’s any new energy coming into them. So when I put on my Lucci hat and say, “I have Lambrusco,” people are like, “What? So you’re a model?” There’s a sense of, “What are we doing here?”
But actually, I love stepping into spaces like Broadway where people don’t think I belong. That tension doesn’t scare me. That was the biggest surprise for me.
How I found my voice
I’m sure he was in his early 30s. Having children has changed me a lot. I felt more powerful in my decision-making because I knew it wasn’t just about me anymore. It was about the big picture for my family.
I think the biggest change happened after I had[my first son]Isaac. At that moment, I felt like, “Let’s go.” I developed a new passion for hiring the right people, firing the right people, and making great strides in my career.
On the importance of physical diversity on the runway
To be honest, I haven’t seen many curve girls on the runway yet (this season). My roll dog, Christian Siriano, always knows how to make curves on the runway. But I didn’t see much more than that, which is a shame.
Our bodies are “in”, but they are not. It changes. It makes me sad to see young girls. They don’t have the thick skin some of us have developed over time. Think about what’s going on in their heads.
Social media sucks, but one of the best things about it is that you get to see all different types of people. You can find a community that looks like you, talks like you, acts like you, and shares your interests. At least that’s it. But it’s going to be disappointing for a while and we have to stick together.
What’s next for Lucci?
Lucci will become famous. I think it’s in almost every restaurant, not just the top trendy ones. My favorite local spot in Jersey already carries it, so it’s a lot of fun.
No matter where you store your wine, we think it will become one of your staple items to always have on hand. I don’t even have a wine cooler yet, but I’m working on one. I think it’s a necessity. But is Lucci in stock and ready? That’s the goal.
Lucci Negroni Svariato Rosso Recipe
Chilled Rucci 3 oz Lambrusco 1 oz Campari 1 oz Sweet Vermouth 1 Orange Twist
Instructions:
For 1 person
Pour into a rocks glass over ice and stir gently. Garnish with an orange twist.
