At Variety, we talk a lot about the soft power of the red carpet. We live in an era where “image architect” is a proud title because the economic and cultural impact that the right look has on stars and brands is profound.
A huge thank you to Valentino Garavani, who passed away on Monday at the age of 93, for this mutually beneficial relationship. In the late 70s, European fashion houses became global companies. As a designer of the most glamorous and dreamy gowns, Mr. Valentino (as he was known) saw the writing on the wall. Celebrities and artists, especially actresses, will come to reinvent how fashion captivates culture and commerce. His muses range from Jackie Kennedy to Gwyneth Paltrow, Julia Roberts to Cate Blanchett.
Renowned documentary filmmaker Matt Tyrnauer (above, far right) chronicled the designer’s lavish lifestyle and pioneering spirit in the 2008 film Valentino: The Last Emperor. The project premiered at that year’s Venice Film Festival and sparked a subgenre of fashion documentaries that offered glimpses into the pain, turmoil, and faith it takes to inspire the masses and sell big.
Just hours after the Valentino news broke, we caught up with Tyrnauer to discuss the designer’s accomplishments in show business and his notoriously volatile personality, receiving compliments from the likes of Paltrow and Colman Domingo.
Your film is almost 20 years old, but it shows how Valentino had the foresight to bring celebrities into the fashion world. What will he leave behind for our town?
Valentino was at the forefront of Hollywood’s involvement with fashion in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. He was one of the first high fashion designers to embrace movie stars hardcore. Before that, fashion was focused on socialites and aristocrats. It was Valentino and his partner, Giancarlo Giammetti, who worked hard to get actresses to wear Valentino clothes. At the time, being a global movie star was a very powerful prestige. Fashion began to be redefined by movie stars wearing your clothes not only in public and on the red carpet, but sometimes in the movies themselves. Valentino was an integral part of the movement from high society to Hollywood, an important part of the fashion world.
Who was his biggest muse?
Elizabeth Taylor and Monica Vitti were the first two in Italy. Over the years, we’ve seen Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, “Cates” (meaning Cate Blanchett and Kate Winslet), Claire Danes, and Julia Roberts. Although not a movie star, the attractive woman who made him famous was Jackie Kennedy. She was the first first lady to bring movie star-level candlepower to the position.
You had unprecedented access to Valentino for your film. What is left for you?
I have never seen anyone living a lifestyle like Valentino. It was too much to describe in words. There were villas, chateaus, chalets, and apartments on Fifth Avenue. Not one pug, not two pugs, but five pugs. And several servants in white gloves are taking care of the pugs. Gianni Agnelli’s famous quote: “I live like a king, but Valentino lives better than I do. And I don’t know how he lives.”
You’ve been very open about having major creative disagreements with Valentino during filming. How do you look back on it now?
What really defined the whole piece was Valentino’s warm embrace and the truly indescribable tantrum that followed. It was a seesaw movement throughout, so we incorporated some of that into the movie. He had no editorial control over the film. He hated that movie. He first saw the film when it premiered at the Venice Film Festival. He received a 10-minute standing ovation after the match and quickly became a big fan. He showed extraordinary talent as a press officer for this film, which became an unexpected hit. I have nothing but love, affection and respect for Valentino and Giancarlo Giamatti. They were just amazing people to spend that much time with and really brought me into their world. It was very brave. After all, we worked arm in arm for the film’s success. It was an unforgettable moment. And it really went around the world. It had a very happy ending.
