When Carolyn Bessette added Kennedy to her last name, she was playing by her own rules.
In 1996, she married former Calvin Klein publicist John F. Kennedy Jr. in a secret ceremony on Cumberland Island, Georgia, but her choice of dress was even more surprising than their intimate wedding.
Now known as CBK, she eschewed Calvin’s custom designs in favor of a $40,000 Narciso Rodriguez bias-cut slip dress, which she paired with silk tulle opera gloves and a simple veil attached to a slightly messy bun.
She stopped wearing jewelry, except for a sapphire and diamond engagement ring inspired by a design owned by her late mother-in-law, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.
Bessette and Rodriguez met when they both worked at Klein, but the American fashion house had never done bridal. Her choice to use a relatively unknown designer (who was working at Cerruti Arte at the time) once again demonstrated her ability to spot talent, follow her instincts, and work against conventional wisdom.
But even more surprising than the designer was the decision to go with a figure-flattering silhouette of silk crepe (requiring perfect technique and high-quality fabrics to achieve the desired effect of effortless beauty) rather than the ballgowns that were popular at the time.
“There were certain expectations[of grandeur]given who she was marrying,” Sunita Kumar Nar, author of CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy: A Life in Fashion, exclusively tells Page Six Style.
“When she walked down those rickety church steps in that dress, it was the only photograph I saw of her at the time in that dress. It was really a very profound statement. It expressed not just her taste, but her confidence in her taste.”
Nair, who was also consulted on FX’s “Love Story,” added, “She dressed like this all her life. Just because she married John Jr., she didn’t suddenly start dressing like this. She always had this kind of minimalist silhouette when she dressed, and this suited her very well in public.”
According to Nile, CBK’s main priority was to “feel confident and comfortable” regardless of the setting.
“I think that was one of her standards in life, and she just did it on her wedding day,” she said.
“I think she was really true to herself, really honest, and there was no compromise.”
On the runways of the ’90s, designers like John Galliano perfected bias-cut dresses inspired by Madeleine Vionnet’s 1930s garments. However, these simple styles were the exact opposite of what brides were purchasing at the time.
“Before Carolyn’s wedding, most celebrities wore ball gowns,” says Mara Urschel, president and co-owner of Kleinfeld Bridal. “Princess Diana’s influence came through in the early ’90s, and brides continued to flock to the princess style. Think dramatic skirts, cathedral trains, and regal silhouettes.”
In addition to Princess Diana’s dress, Urschel said brides wanted gowns similar to those worn by Celine Dion, Victoria Beckham and Julia Roberts in “Runaway Bride.” All were characterized by their voluminous feel, sweeping skirts, and bold decorations.
“The ’90s marked a transition from the ultra-voluminous, dramatic ’80s look to a more refined, sophisticated bridal style. ’90s bridal style was all about elegance, combining minimalism and romantic details,” she added.
The “Carolyn Effect” will still be relevant in 2026. According to eBay experts, searches for Narciso Rodriguez and white slip dresses are both up 15% year over year (January 2025 to January 2026).
Although Kleinfeld’s clientele is “more traditional,” Urschel says CBK is still on the mood board.
“Slip wedding dresses have become a staple in today’s bridal world. Brides seeking a sophisticated, minimalist aesthetic are often drawn to this effortlessly elegant silhouette,” says Urschel.
“Slip dresses are also becoming increasingly popular among those planning intimate celebrations or destination weddings, offering a sophisticated yet relaxed option for modern ceremonies.”
